The single Muller 2006 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett is remarkably broad-shouldered and rich – not to mention packed with pit fruit and crushed stone stuffing – for a wine labeled “Kabinett,” but Muller’s response to this observation is insightful. “It was never our intent to think of ‘Kabinett’ as ‘light’ wine,” he says. “We go farther back historically in our concept, in the old sense of ‘Naturwein’ or capital-C ‘Cabinet,’ the estate’s calling card, an unchaptalized wine that can serve as a benchmark from one vintage to the next. If I could, though, I’d give up the word ‘Kabinett’ instantly.” The finish of this Kabinett has serious mineral weight and richness of peach and purple plum fruit, but a lovely aura of floral essences, and unusually pungent yet refreshing herbal notes suggesting mint and oregano hang over the whole performance. 90. ROBERT PARKER