The dense ruby/purple-hued, fresh, vivacious 2004 Mouton-Rothschild offers hints of new saddle leather, truffles, cassis, and pain grille, zesty acidity, a touch of austerity, and a medium-bodied, streamlined, restrained personality. This rich, pure claret will require patience as it needs a decade of cellaring to shed its lofty tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2045. ROBERT PARKER