Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Orange 2023
The Wine
62% Pinot Gris, 23% Sauvignon Blanc and 14% Pinot Noir with minor inclusions of Gewurztraminer, Muscat and Viognier
It tastes like Huw Kinch is on a personal mission to make the best dammed orange wine in the southern hemisphere. And he’s getting there! This year’s blend comprises 62% Pinot Gris, 23% Sauvignon Blanc, 14% Pinot Noir (vinified as a white) and the merest seasoning of Gewürztraminer, Muscat and Viognier. The wine brings together four vineyards that are sustainably farmed, free of artificial chemicals or fertilisers: the Course-Choi Vineyard (previously Porters) on Mackenzies Road; the Good Family Vineyard and Fraher Vineyard on Omihi Clay soils in North Canterbury; and Pinot Noir from Pyramid Valley’s Lowburn vineyard in Central Otago.
The fruit is primarily vinified as bunches for 12 to 24 days in open-top fermenters with a small amount of ‘Blanc de Noir’ pressings added during fermentation. The wines age in concrete and old barrels for six months without sulphur. “We want to make an Orange that’s balanced between the tannins and fruit weight,” Kinch explains. “So finer, lighter tannins, something that matches our cooler climate.” Max Allen commented on this wine’s premier release: “Oh, if only all orange wines were as downright delicious and as beautiful as this.” It has only kicked on since then. So moreish and tangy with a juicy palate and dry, powdery close licked by Campari-like bitters. Tangerine dream! Bibendum
The Details
Variety - Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer, Muscat and Viognier
Country - New Zealand
Region - North Canterbury
Extra - Screwcap
Year - 2023
Volume - 750ml
About the Wine Maker 
Pyramid Valley founders, Mike and Claudia Weersing, were driven to create one of the New World’s great cool-climate vineyards and it took 15 years and a quixotic global journey that included a lengthy stopover in Burgundy. Mimicking the aspect and soils of this region, the Weersings finally found their special place in the southern hemisphere, within a barren chain of limestone-rich scarps at Waikari in North Canterbury. Inspiring all who came into their orbit, over another 15 years Mike and Claudia emerged as New Zealands pioneers of both biodynamic practices and high-density viticulture. Their minute scale and exceptional dedication to their soils and vines led to some incredible wines being produced.
In 2017, Mike and Claudia were moved to make the tough decision to put their magnum opus on the market. Steve Smith MW (previously of Craggy Range) was one of the many affected by what he describes as one of the most compelling and unique vineyards he has ever visited—he and his partner Brian Sheth acquired the estate in late 2017. Pyramid Valley had no shortage of suitors, and that Mike and Claudia chose to accept Smith’s offer speaks volumes. Smith’s blueprint from the outset has been to honour the Weersing’s vision and to build on the authenticity and integrity of the vineyard’s origins.
Building on the vision and authenticity of founders Mike and Claudia Weersing, the new owners look like a dead cert to cement this exceptional estate’s reputation as one of the New World’s most exciting producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Smith brought in Huw Kinch from Martinborough’s Escarpment as Estate Manager and Winemaker. Kinch was already a huge fan, believing that Pyramid Valley’s Chardonnays were among the most profound examples he had tasted. Nick Paulin then joined from Central Otago, where he had been introduced to biodynamic viticulture under Blair Walter at Felton Road (before stints at Peregrine and Lowburn Ferry).
Since joining the team in the winter of 2018, Kinch (who lives on-site with his family) has spent much of his energy expanding the original blocks, which now extend to 6.8 hectares (still not a lot of vines). Following Mike Weersing’s original vineyard map—which he never got to complete—the new plantings are all on Pyramid Valley’s mid-slope. To add clonal complexity, the new Chardonnay cuttings have included some clone 845 (in addition to the existing Mendoza and 95). The vines are spaced at a slightly lower density of 8,000 vines per hectare to allow more cover cropping and increased soil biodiversity. Kinch is particularly excited about expanding the existing, tiny 0.4-hectare Lion’s Tooth Block.
Pyramid Valley now releases three collections annually. The emblematic, 100% estate Botanical Collection will be released on allocation. For more general release is their Pastures Collection, which sees Pyramid Valley working with a roster of exceptional growers in North Canterbury, Central Otago and Marlborough. This collection is the Pyramid Valley’s negociant arm—a vital part of this project, with the aim to create a set of wines that share the same sense of somewhereness as the wines from the home vineyard. Finally, the Colours Collection comprises the Sauvignon+, Orange and Rosé.
