Dry River 'Craighall Vineyard' Riesling 2022

96 Pts Erin Larkin robertparker.com ‘The 2022 Craighall Vineyard Riesling leads with salted lime, cheesecloth, apple skin and river stones on the nose. Graphite and even pencil lead ripple the edges of the aromatics. In the mouth, the wine is waxy and spiced, with lanolin and white pepper. It's totally textured and sort of robust but svelte. There's the full spectrum of experience here—flavor, aromatics and texture (the most important). It's a powerful, great wine. Excellent and poised. Seven grams per liter of residual sugar remain in this wine, with 50% in neutral oak for six months and on lees. This is a lovely wine. A beauty. Race and pace. 12% alcohol, sealed under Diam.’ Drink to 2043

Dry River is one of the founding vineyards in Martinborough. Established in 1979 by Dr Neil and Dawn McCallum, they planted a vineyard a on the very dry and free-draining area now called the ‘Martinborough Terrace’. Extremely low yields, non-irrigated vinProphets Rockes, innovative vineyard techniques and a desire to make long-lived wines have earned Dry River a reputation for being one of New Zealand's leading premium-wine producers.

In 2003, Neil sold the winery to Wall Street financier, Julian Robertson. The new owners provided the means for necessary winery expansion and renovation. In 2023, Dry River returned to New Zealand ownership, purchased by Wellington businessman Charlie Zheng. Charlie is deeply committed to honouring the Dry River heritage and its pioneering tradition. 

Current winemaker Ben McNab (pictured above) called on in June 2025 to chat and pour the 2022 releases. Ben, formerly from Palliser Estate, was named the 2021 Tonnellerie de Mercurey Young Winemaker of the Year. As a third-generation farmer in the Wairarapa, he has a vineyard-led approach that is respectful of the traditions he inherits – ‘Martinborough doesn’t make bulk wine – it’s low yield, high quality, fine wine. You don’t make these equality wines from behind a desk – it’s a high-touch approach based on a very close relationship with the wine.’ 

It was such a treat to revisit these wines. They’re approachable now - the Pinot requires a decant - but as many of you know, all age very well too!