Dry River Pinot Gris 2022

91 Pts Erin Larkin robertparker.com ‘The 2022 Pinot Gris is from the estate vineyard, a portion of which was the original plantings from 1979. While this is quite sedate in its fruit outlay, the wine is textural and plump. It moves at a different speed to the Riesling (duh), but once you settle into this rhythm, it makes sense too. It's fleshy, with nashi pears, white chocolate, a hint of something leafy and green and all things moving in a dappled way. Lovely wine. 14% alcohol, sealed under Diam.’ Drink to 2037

Dry River is one of the founding vineyards in Martinborough. Established in 1979 by Dr Neil and Dawn McCallum, they planted a vineyard a on the very dry and free-draining area now called the ‘Martinborough Terrace’. Extremely low yields, non-irrigated vinProphets Rockes, innovative vineyard techniques and a desire to make long-lived wines have earned Dry River a reputation for being one of New Zealand's leading premium-wine producers.

In 2003, Neil sold the winery to Wall Street financier, Julian Robertson. The new owners provided the means for necessary winery expansion and renovation. In 2023, Dry River returned to New Zealand ownership, purchased by Wellington businessman Charlie Zheng. Charlie is deeply committed to honouring the Dry River heritage and its pioneering tradition. 

Current winemaker Ben McNab (pictured above) called on in June 2025 to chat and pour the 2022 releases. Ben, formerly from Palliser Estate, was named the 2021 Tonnellerie de Mercurey Young Winemaker of the Year. As a third-generation farmer in the Wairarapa, he has a vineyard-led approach that is respectful of the traditions he inherits – ‘Martinborough doesn’t make bulk wine – it’s low yield, high quality, fine wine. You don’t make these equality wines from behind a desk – it’s a high-touch approach based on a very close relationship with the wine.’ 

It was such a treat to revisit these wines. They’re approachable now - the Pinot requires a decant - but as many of you know, all age very well too!