Domaine de Montbourgeau L’Etoile Vin Blanc 2018
"A lifetime ago I was convinced into trying Montbourgeau’s wines by my wine merchant pal in Poligny, Jura. He’d wave the bottles at me while I was heading for his secret cellar list of ‘cooler producers’ and eventually I capitulated and, well, the rest is history. One of the best of best old school-good school producers in Jura, with the dial turned up on saline, savoury, nutty, fino characters. So you gotta dig that. Chardonnay wine.
Incredibly complex, indeed, few chardonnays can come close to the level of detail here. Almost a long, lees time Champagne kind of nutty-saline intensity, scents and flavours, slick-sticky in texture, rich but super fresh with salty acidity and green apple juice brightness. So much aroma, so much flavour. Such an outstanding, compelling, meal of a wine, but with cut and thrust and regal distinction." Mike Bennie (The Wine Front)
"...Aromas of red apple skin, hazelnut, apple cider, and sour beer. On the weighty palate, water chestnut, honey, and cheese rind. Keeping the wine in the fridge for a day or two revealed even more with apple brandy and cognac notes emerging. I will never look at Chardonnay the same way again. This is a stunning example of how versatile the grape is. Food? Think strong cheeses and baguette slathered with salted butter..." SG, Astor
Shock Content, oxidative yummyness! Allow your palate some space and time to adjust, then start shucking those oysters. Outrageous ride from this manzanillaesque dream that is however unmistakably Jura. Here, chardonnay barrels are topped up in the first year following a period of evaporation, then aged for 3 years, letting nature and the flor do its thing. Insane complexity, the intense oxidative nutty, saline elements will surprising suit an array of cuisines so experiment! Btw no returns, suck it up LOL..."TC
Variety - Chardonnay
Country - France
Region - Jura
Extra - Cork
Year - 2018
Volume - 750ml
The vineyard was planted in 1920, by Nicole Deriaux's grandfather, and has produced traditional Jura wines since. In 1956 Nicole’s father, Jean Gros, became the head of the family and taking his turn to develop the vineyard and the cellar. Then some thirty years later in 1986, it was finally time for Nicole to take part in the operation of the Domaine. Continuing the family tradition, she is now helped by her son Cesar. They Deriaux's are hard-working people, with their efforts reflected in bottle. The wines are precise, straightforward, and with superb intensity.
The ten hectares of vines are composed primarily of Chardonnay and Savagnin, as well as some reds with a small planting of Trousseau and Poulsard. The vineyard is organically farmed, and the vinification is very traditional, respecting the ancient practices of this region. Nicole Deriaux through her natural approach to viticulture and winemaking aims to retain and fully express the purity of l'Etoile terroir.
When harvest time comes, the grapes are pick by hands and then vinified in the cave underneath Deriaux's home. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks using strictly indigenous yeasts. Then all the wines are racked into a mix of old foudres, demi-muids and smaller barrels. The whites are matured in barrel; they are never racked; they are not topped off.
The small quantity of wines produced is then bottled, with no fining and a light filtration. The L'Etoile signature style, crafted by talented Nicole Deriaux, are wines of unique purity and elegance.
THE WINE FRONT, MIKE BENNIE: “One of those Jura producers that seems to get overlooked for the Instagrammable ones, and by virtue of that, leaves us, the righteous, opportunity to access the wines! Hurrah!”, “Organic producer that sits under the radar in Jura, but is firmly on mine now. It took me a while to get to these wines, but when I did they suddenly became very important in my Jura matrix.”